Après l’agitation frénétique autour des temples d’Angkor, on file plus à l’est pour découvrir la jolie ville de Kratie et visiter la province du Mondulkiri.
Les petits dauphins du Mekong
Kratie est notamment visitée pour ses dauphins d’eau douce, qui ont l’air de commencer à déserter la zone. Vu notre succès avec les animaux depuis le début des vacances, on va se concentrer sur les paysages.
Kratie est une petite ville, assez agréable et paisible, sise au bord du Mekong.
Il semblerait que les couchers de soleil depuis la ville soient les plus beaux du pays. La suite du voyage nous prouvera que non, d’autres teintes magnifiques existent ailleurs.
Le premier jour, on file faire à pieds, sous un sacré cagnard, le tour de l’île située en face de Kratie. Nous nommons l’île de Kaoh Trong.
Pas de voiture, pas d’agitation. Ici, la vie est rurale et bien calme.
On se fait notre tour, à la découverte de maisons Cambodgiennes, de jardins verdoyants, d’un village flottant et de vaches sur la plage.
Note pour la prochaine fois : il est possible de dormir sur l’île, il y a 2-3 pensions à côté du débarcadère. Ça doit être agréable de se calquer sur le rythme paisible de cet espace insulaire.
Des rapides, des rapides, des rapides
Le second jour, on monte un peu plus au nord, à une cinquantaine de kilomètres de Kratie, à Sambor.
Il y a tout là-haut le fameux temple des Cent Colonnes.

On avait compris que c’était le temple SANS colonnes. Quelle ne fût pas notre surprise en voyant autant de piliers de barres cerner cet édifice.
On plonge dans la vie rurale. Les villages se prolongent à l’infini le long du Mékong, qui concentre toutes les activités des environs.
On tombe surtout sur une attraction touristique plutôt Cambodgienne : les rapides sur le Mekong (rapides de Sambok).
On découvre des loisirs Cambodgiens. Des paillotes ont été construites au dessus de l’eau, sur lesquelles les Cambodgiens viennent pique-niquer, faire des ploufs dans l’eau et surtout faire du karaoké – l’activité de loisir la plus en vogue en ce moment au Cambodge. Spectacle garanti. Second degré exigé à l’entrée.
Chantier monstrueux, les cabanes sont démontées avant la saison des pluies, en attendant sagement l’année suivante.
Le Mondulkiri : des éléphants et des hommes.
Le Mondulkiri est une petite province à l’est du Cambodge, proche de la frontière avec le Viet-Nam.
Touristiquement, la région est surnommée la « Vallée des éléphants », Ce qui n’a aucun rapport avec la circonférence de certains touristes, mais bien avec la présence de pachydermes dans le coin.
C’est plutôt la jungle et la possibilité d’y randonner qui nous intéressent, on ne fait pas les difficiles, on prend le package complet incluant un trek dans la jungle et une petite visite de courtoisie aux éléphants.
Qui veut des bananes ?
On choisit pour visiter la jungle de passer par M. Tree (à ne pas confondre avec Mr. Tee), qui propose une balade dans la jungle, une nuit dans les arbres et une journée avec les éléphants.
C’est très agréable de se trouver dans la jungle. On attendait cette partie du voyage avec impatience.
On y découvre la déforestation, les karaokés en bord d’étang, les bambous géants, de jolies cascades.
Après une bonne journée de marche, on débarque à notre logement temporaire pour la nuit. La vue, au dessus des arbres est splendide.
Ça nous cloue le bec jusqu’à la fin de notre nuit dans des hamacs.
Le lendemain, on rend visite aux éléphants.
Le matin, on leur donne des bananes, l’après-midi on va faire trempette avec eux, en mode éléphant bleu, en remplaçant les jetons par d’autres bananes.
Le but de ce programme est de sortir les éléphants de leurs exploitations (porter du bois ou des touristes) pour leur offrir une retraite.
En parallèle, réintégrer les éléphants dans leur milieu naturel permet d’aider aussi les tribus indigènes Khmers (Phnong), en leur donnant un travail, une assurance santé, la scolarité pour les enfants etc. . Ici la forêt est protégée de la déforestation.
Nous, ça nous laisse assez sceptiques cette forme d’éco-tourisme. On doute des réels bienfaits de ces programmes pour les populations locales et éléphantesques pour la préservation de la jungle.
Les éléphants ont l’air un peu malheureux entourés de cet afflux quotidien de plus de vingt personnes. Cet (éco-)business semble prendre le dessus sur les intentions affichées, on ne sait pas trop sur quel pied danser. Alors on observe, et on garde nos « Oui… mais » pour nous.
Cinq fruits et légumes par jour
Comme on a envie d’aller plus loin dans notre découverte de la jungle, on repart dans la foulée pour deux jours de trekking, avec des guides locaux.
On s’enfonce un peu plus loin dans la jungle, en commençant direct à la machette. Les premiers pas dans la forêt nous font vibrer. Voilà enfin l’aventure !
L’aventure tant attendue sera un peu décevante : on ne marchera pas les 20 kilomètres quotidiens promis à l’origine de la balade.
Cette frustration sera soignée par une superbe aventure gastronomique : poulet et poissons grillés, grenouilles pêchées à la lampe frontale, soupe d’aubergine & rotin. Et pour changer, un peu de riz à chaque repas. On ne s’en lasse pas.
La jungle est beaucoup plus verdoyante et généreuse ici. Les très vieux arbres sont abattus et débités sur place. Le reste de la jungle résiste aux tronçonneuses et autres techniques de brulis.
Nous avons croisé pas mal de plantes tropicales que nous élevons en France. C’est rigolo d’en retrouver certaines dans leur écrin naturel, ici au Cambodge.
On revient de ces treks plutôt en forme et bien nourris pour le coup.
On sera restés une petite semaine dans ce coin de nature, qui nous a bien plu. L’exploration par la route jusqu’à la frontière Vietnamienne semble offrir elle-aussi de beaux paysages et du calme.
Allez, on rembarque nos pantalons anti-bestioles de la jungle et on va voir dans le sud qui a les plus gros oursins.
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